EASTERN DELIGHTS
Three to Four Weeks / Trabzon to Nemrut Dağı
Buzzing Trabzon ( p548 ) has a handful of sights worth a quick look-see, though
most people head straight to nearby Sumela monastery ( p554 ), peering down
on a forested valley from its precarious-looking rockface. The route from
here to Kars is spectacular. First travel from Trabzon to Erzurum ( p555 ) and then
continue via Yusufeli ( p571 ). The route is best done by car or taxi as you’d miss
the breathtaking views and ruined churches of medieval Georgia whizzing
past in a bus. The onward drive between Yusufeli, Artvin and Kars is one of
Turkey’s most scenic (see p576 ), with roadways passing over dramatic moun-
tain ranges, through gorges frothing with white water and past crumbling
castles. Kars ( p577 ) is beguiling, but its star attraction is Ani ( p581 ), close by,
once a thriving Armenian capital, but now a field strewn with magnificent
ruins overlooked by the border guards of modern Armenia.
Head south to the raffish frontier town of Doğubayazıt ( p586 ) and the
outstanding İshak Paşa Palace ( p586 ).
Further south is Van ( p637 ), its proud drawcards the nearby spectacular
Hoşap Castle ( p643 ) and the 10th-century Akdamar church ( p636 ), the sole
inhabitant of a teeny island in Lake Van. The church’s superbly preserved
carvings just pip the wow factor on this church’s magnificent setting.
Heading west, don’t miss Hasankeyf ( p632 ), with its soaring rock-cut castle
by the ancient Tigris River, and Mardin ( p626 ), a gorgeous, honey-coloured
town overlooking the roasting plains of Mesopotamia. From Mardin head
north to Diyarbakır ( p621 ), the exotic heartland of Kurdish culture, its ancient
sights ringed by even older city walls. Finally, see what all the fuss is about at
Nemrut Dağı( p610 ), the gigantic stone heads the only image of eastern Turkey
that does make it into brochures.
Escape the crowds
and hightail it to
the Turkey rarely
seen in glossy
tourist brochures,
the other Turkey:
the wild,
magnificent east.
After it casts its
spell you’ll find
western Turkey
downright tame.
Some 2740km,
and never a dull
moment.
THE CARAVAN TRAIL
Two Weeks / Kuşadası to Dıyarbakır
Caravanserais (see p57 ), dotting the routes of ancient trade routes, were
once the ancient equivalent of the roadhouse. Today they’re renovated as
historical sights and hotels, or are sadly crumbling away. All evoke the nights
of snorting animals tethered in the courtyard, with the rooms above abuzz
with the snores of travellers and merchants.
Spending a night at overblown Kuşadası is worth it for Club Caravanserai
( p261 ), the pleasant rooms playing second fiddle to the ‘Turkish Nights’ show
in the courtyard. Plant your tongue in your cheek and enjoy. Head east to
famous Pamukkale, but instead of the travertines admire the beautiful carved
gateway of the Ak Han ( p329 ) and the nearby Kaklık Cave, the underground
‘Pamukkale’ that tourists rarely see. Head north to Otel Dülgeroğlu ( p311 ) in
Uşak, now a mighty fine hotel. Continue north to Bursa’s Koza Han ( p296 );
visit in June or September to join the heaving throng engaging in the age-old
haggle of the silk trade.
From Bursa, head east to the Cinci Han ( p457 ), as good excuse as any to
visit the World Heritage–listed Ottoman town of Safranbolu. From here
head south to Cappadocia, a region with more caravanserais than fleas on a
camel. Highlights include Ağzıkara Hanı ( p534 ), the superb Sultanhanı ( p491 ),
Turkey’s largest caravanserai, and Sultan Han ( p499 ), runner up to that title
Sarıhan ( p515 ) and Saruhan ( p527 ) both offer something slightly different.
The first doubles as a set for whirling dervish sema and the latter is home
to a fine eatery. From Cappadocia head east to pit stop at Battalgazi ( p619 )
near Malatya. End your caravan journey in style at the atmospheric Otel
Büyük Kervansaray ( p625 ) in beguiling Diyarbakır, Kurdish heartland and a
soulful city steeped in history
No camels and
very little grunt is
required on this
1800km adventure
into Turkey’s
lesser-known but
magnificent
hinterland. From
tourist-trashed
Kuşadası to
sublimely exotic
Diyarbakır, saddle
up and hit the
hans
Three to Four Weeks / Trabzon to Nemrut Dağı
Buzzing Trabzon ( p548 ) has a handful of sights worth a quick look-see, though
most people head straight to nearby Sumela monastery ( p554 ), peering down
on a forested valley from its precarious-looking rockface. The route from
here to Kars is spectacular. First travel from Trabzon to Erzurum ( p555 ) and then
continue via Yusufeli ( p571 ). The route is best done by car or taxi as you’d miss
the breathtaking views and ruined churches of medieval Georgia whizzing
past in a bus. The onward drive between Yusufeli, Artvin and Kars is one of
Turkey’s most scenic (see p576 ), with roadways passing over dramatic moun-
tain ranges, through gorges frothing with white water and past crumbling
castles. Kars ( p577 ) is beguiling, but its star attraction is Ani ( p581 ), close by,
once a thriving Armenian capital, but now a field strewn with magnificent
ruins overlooked by the border guards of modern Armenia.
Head south to the raffish frontier town of Doğubayazıt ( p586 ) and the
outstanding İshak Paşa Palace ( p586 ).
Further south is Van ( p637 ), its proud drawcards the nearby spectacular
Hoşap Castle ( p643 ) and the 10th-century Akdamar church ( p636 ), the sole
inhabitant of a teeny island in Lake Van. The church’s superbly preserved
carvings just pip the wow factor on this church’s magnificent setting.
Heading west, don’t miss Hasankeyf ( p632 ), with its soaring rock-cut castle
by the ancient Tigris River, and Mardin ( p626 ), a gorgeous, honey-coloured
town overlooking the roasting plains of Mesopotamia. From Mardin head
north to Diyarbakır ( p621 ), the exotic heartland of Kurdish culture, its ancient
sights ringed by even older city walls. Finally, see what all the fuss is about at
Nemrut Dağı( p610 ), the gigantic stone heads the only image of eastern Turkey
that does make it into brochures.
Escape the crowds
and hightail it to
the Turkey rarely
seen in glossy
tourist brochures,
the other Turkey:
the wild,
magnificent east.
After it casts its
spell you’ll find
western Turkey
downright tame.
Some 2740km,
and never a dull
moment.
THE CARAVAN TRAIL
Two Weeks / Kuşadası to Dıyarbakır
Caravanserais (see p57 ), dotting the routes of ancient trade routes, were
once the ancient equivalent of the roadhouse. Today they’re renovated as
historical sights and hotels, or are sadly crumbling away. All evoke the nights
of snorting animals tethered in the courtyard, with the rooms above abuzz
with the snores of travellers and merchants.
Spending a night at overblown Kuşadası is worth it for Club Caravanserai
( p261 ), the pleasant rooms playing second fiddle to the ‘Turkish Nights’ show
in the courtyard. Plant your tongue in your cheek and enjoy. Head east to
famous Pamukkale, but instead of the travertines admire the beautiful carved
gateway of the Ak Han ( p329 ) and the nearby Kaklık Cave, the underground
‘Pamukkale’ that tourists rarely see. Head north to Otel Dülgeroğlu ( p311 ) in
Uşak, now a mighty fine hotel. Continue north to Bursa’s Koza Han ( p296 );
visit in June or September to join the heaving throng engaging in the age-old
haggle of the silk trade.
From Bursa, head east to the Cinci Han ( p457 ), as good excuse as any to
visit the World Heritage–listed Ottoman town of Safranbolu. From here
head south to Cappadocia, a region with more caravanserais than fleas on a
camel. Highlights include Ağzıkara Hanı ( p534 ), the superb Sultanhanı ( p491 ),
Turkey’s largest caravanserai, and Sultan Han ( p499 ), runner up to that title
Sarıhan ( p515 ) and Saruhan ( p527 ) both offer something slightly different.
The first doubles as a set for whirling dervish sema and the latter is home
to a fine eatery. From Cappadocia head east to pit stop at Battalgazi ( p619 )
near Malatya. End your caravan journey in style at the atmospheric Otel
Büyük Kervansaray ( p625 ) in beguiling Diyarbakır, Kurdish heartland and a
soulful city steeped in history
No camels and
very little grunt is
required on this
1800km adventure
into Turkey’s
lesser-known but
magnificent
hinterland. From
tourist-trashed
Kuşadası to
sublimely exotic
Diyarbakır, saddle
up and hit the
hans
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