CLASSIC ROUTES
FROM THE GOLDEN HORN TO THE SACRED WAY
One Week / İstanbul to Ephesus
Hold tight for a whiz through the triumphs, glories and tragedies of empires.
Begin in İstanbul, once the glittering heart of the Byzantine and Ottoman
Empires. Start with the Topkapı Palace ( p109), one-time home of Ottoman
sultans, obelisk-hop the ancient Hippodrome ( p106), and steam away any
aches with a massage at Çemberlitaş Hamamı ( p133 ). Late evening, do as the
locals do and head to İstiklal Caddesi, heart of modern Turkey, and a helluva
place for people-watching. The buzzing meyhanes (taverns) behind Çiçek
Pasajı ( p146 ) are a must. If you needed an excuse to dip into a glass or three
of rakı (aniseed-flavoured grape brandy), you’ll find plenty of peer pressure
here. On day two start with the Blue Mosque (p106), then the magnificent
Aya Sofya ( p104). Afterwards head underground at the atmospheric Basilica
Cistern (p 108) and take a charged credit card and plenty of stamina to the
labyrinthine Grand Bazaar ( p115 ). Weather permitting, on day three you could
take a cruise along the Bosphorus ( p128 ), and peer over to the Black Sea after
you’ve hiked off your delish fish lunch at Anadolu Kavağı (p131).
Come day four rise early and head down to Çanakkale, so you can be
touring the Gallipoli battlefields (p 183) by early afternoon. The devastation
witnessed here during WWI needs no introduction. Next morning head to
famous Troy ( p203 ), worth a visit even without Brad Pitt. You’ll need another
early start to bus down to Selçuk, the base for visiting the ruins of Ephesus
( p251 ), the best preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean.
Tick off İstanbul’s A-list sights, the Gallipoli battle- fields, and the ruins of Troy and Ephesus in one action-packed action-packed action-packed week, a journey of 1450km
COAST & CAPPADOCIA - Three Weeks / İstanbul to Cappadocia
For the first week, follow the first itinerary; see p23 . Then, from your base at Selçuk, day-trip to the travertines and ruins of Hierapolis at Pamukkale (p324). The brilliant white terraces can be dizzying in the midday sun, but a dip in Hierapolis Termal’s swimming pool will restore your cool.
Heading back to the coast, ignore the overblown resorts of Bodrum and
Marmaris and head straight for Fethiye and beautiful Ölüdeniz .
This is the spot to take to the air on a paraglide or lay way low on a beach
towel. You’re now within kicking distance of the famous Lycian Way ;
hike for a day through superb countryside to overnight in heavenly Faralya
, and further inroads into the Lycian Way will definitely head up your
‘next time’ list. Back on the coast, pit stop at laid-back Kaş , its pretty
harbourside square alive nightly with the hum of friendly folk enjoying the
breeze, views, boutique browsing and a beer or two. You may want a few
days more unwinding at the famous beach tree house complexes at Olympos
close by.
Antalya’s old Kaleiçi quarter is well worth a wander against the
backdrop of that jaw-dropping mountain range. Then it’s time to fold your
bikini into a matchbox and head inland. Catch an overnight bus north to
claim your cave in Göreme . This low-key travellers’ hang-out is the
best place to base yourself in Cappadocia, a surreal moonscape with
phallic tuff cones, no less. For most the cones don’t overshadow the more
orthodox sights including the superb rock-cut frescoed churches of Göreme
Open-Air Museum and the spooky underground cities at Derinkuyu
and Kaymaklı
This is one trip you won’t forget a hurry. Pack your towel, pumps, pedometer - you’re seeing the sights of Old İstanbul, the highlights of the Aegean and the Mediterranean . coasts and finishing off in kooky Ephesus Cappadocia - a whopping 3100km of travel.
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
EASTERN DELIGHTS Three to Four Weeks / Trabzon to Nemrut Dağı
Buzzing Trabzon has a handful of sights worth a quick look-see, though
most people head straight to nearby Sumela monastery , peering down
on a forested valley from its precarious-looking rockface. The route from
here to Kars is spectacular. First travel from Trabzon to Erzurum and then
continue via Yusufeli . The route is best done by car or taxi as you’d miss
the breathtaking views and ruined churches of medieval Georgia whizzing
past in a bus. The onward drive between Yusufeli, Artvin and Kars is one of
Turkey’s most scenic , with roadways passing over dramatic moun-
tain ranges, through gorges frothing with white water and past crumbling
castles. Kars is beguiling, but its star attraction is Ani (p581), close by,
once a thriving Armenian capital, but now a field strewn with magnificent
ruins overlooked by the border guards of modern Armenia.
Head south to the raffish frontier town of Doğubayazıt and the outstanding İshak Paşa Palace .
Further south is Van , its proud drawcards the nearby spectacular
Hoşap Castle and the 10th-century Akdamar church , the sole
inhabitant of a teeny island in Lake Van. The church’s superbly preserved
carvings just pip the wow factor on this church’s magnificent setting.
Heading west, don’t miss Hasankeyf , with its soaring rock-cut castle
by the ancient Tigris River, and Mardin , a gorgeous, honey-coloured town overlooking the roasting plains of Mesopotamia. From Mardin head north to Diyarbakır , the exotic heartland of Kurdish culture, its ancient sights ringed by even older city walls. Finally, see what all the fuss is about at Nemrut Dağı , the gigantic stone heads the only image of eastern Turkey that does make it into brochures
Escape the crowds and hightail it to the Turkey rarely seen in glossy tourist brochures, the other Turkey: the wild magnificent east. After it casts its spell you’ll find western Turkey downright tame. Some 2740km, and never a dull moment.
THE CARAVAN TRAIL Two Weeks / Kuşadası to Dıyarbakır
Caravanserais (see p57), dotting the routes of ancient trade routes, were
once the ancient equivalent of the roadhouse. Today they’re renovated as
historical sights and hotels, or are sadly crumbling away. All evoke the nights
of snorting animals tethered in the courtyard, with the rooms above abuzz
with the snores of travellers and merchants.
Spending a night at overblown Kuşadası is worth it for Club Caravanserai
, the pleasant rooms playing second fiddle to the ‘Turkish Nights’ show
in the courtyard. Plant your tongue in your cheek and enjoy. Head east to
famous Pamukkale, but instead of the travertines admire the beautiful carved
gateway of the Ak Han and the nearby Kaklık Cave, the underground
‘Pamukkale’ that tourists rarely see. Head north to Otel Dülgeroğlu (p311) in
Uşak, now a mighty fine hotel. Continue north to Bursa’s Koza Han (p296);
visit in June or September to join the heaving throng engaging in the age-old
haggle of the silk trade.
From Bursa, head east to the Cinci Han , as good excuse as any to
visit the World Heritage-listed Ottoman town of Safranbolu. From here
head south to Cappadocia, a region with more caravanserais than fleas on a
camel. Highlights include Ağzıkara Hanı , the superb Sultanhanı,
Turkey’s largest caravanserai, and Sultan Han, runner up to that title.
Sarıhan and Saruhan both offer something slightly different.
The first doubles as a set for whirling dervish sema and the latter is home
to a fine eatery. From Cappadocia head east to pit stop at Battalgazi ( p619 )
near Malatya. End your caravan journey in style at the atmospheric Otel
Büyük Kervansaray in beguiling Diyarbakır, Kurdish heartland and a
soulful city steeped in history.
No camels and very little grunt is required on this 1800km adventure into Turkey’s lesser-known but magnificent hinterland. From tourist-trashed Kuşadası to sublimely exotic Diyarbakır, saddle up and hit the hans.
FROM THE GOLDEN HORN TO THE SACRED WAY
One Week / İstanbul to Ephesus
Hold tight for a whiz through the triumphs, glories and tragedies of empires.
Begin in İstanbul, once the glittering heart of the Byzantine and Ottoman
Empires. Start with the Topkapı Palace ( p109), one-time home of Ottoman
sultans, obelisk-hop the ancient Hippodrome ( p106), and steam away any
aches with a massage at Çemberlitaş Hamamı ( p133 ). Late evening, do as the
locals do and head to İstiklal Caddesi, heart of modern Turkey, and a helluva
place for people-watching. The buzzing meyhanes (taverns) behind Çiçek
Pasajı ( p146 ) are a must. If you needed an excuse to dip into a glass or three
of rakı (aniseed-flavoured grape brandy), you’ll find plenty of peer pressure
here. On day two start with the Blue Mosque (p106), then the magnificent
Aya Sofya ( p104). Afterwards head underground at the atmospheric Basilica
Cistern (p 108) and take a charged credit card and plenty of stamina to the
labyrinthine Grand Bazaar ( p115 ). Weather permitting, on day three you could
take a cruise along the Bosphorus ( p128 ), and peer over to the Black Sea after
you’ve hiked off your delish fish lunch at Anadolu Kavağı (p131).
Come day four rise early and head down to Çanakkale, so you can be
touring the Gallipoli battlefields (p 183) by early afternoon. The devastation
witnessed here during WWI needs no introduction. Next morning head to
famous Troy ( p203 ), worth a visit even without Brad Pitt. You’ll need another
early start to bus down to Selçuk, the base for visiting the ruins of Ephesus
( p251 ), the best preserved classical city in the eastern Mediterranean.
Tick off İstanbul’s A-list sights, the Gallipoli battle- fields, and the ruins of Troy and Ephesus in one action-packed action-packed action-packed week, a journey of 1450km
COAST & CAPPADOCIA - Three Weeks / İstanbul to Cappadocia
For the first week, follow the first itinerary; see p23 . Then, from your base at Selçuk, day-trip to the travertines and ruins of Hierapolis at Pamukkale (p324). The brilliant white terraces can be dizzying in the midday sun, but a dip in Hierapolis Termal’s swimming pool will restore your cool.
Heading back to the coast, ignore the overblown resorts of Bodrum and
Marmaris and head straight for Fethiye and beautiful Ölüdeniz .
This is the spot to take to the air on a paraglide or lay way low on a beach
towel. You’re now within kicking distance of the famous Lycian Way ;
hike for a day through superb countryside to overnight in heavenly Faralya
, and further inroads into the Lycian Way will definitely head up your
‘next time’ list. Back on the coast, pit stop at laid-back Kaş , its pretty
harbourside square alive nightly with the hum of friendly folk enjoying the
breeze, views, boutique browsing and a beer or two. You may want a few
days more unwinding at the famous beach tree house complexes at Olympos
close by.
Antalya’s old Kaleiçi quarter is well worth a wander against the
backdrop of that jaw-dropping mountain range. Then it’s time to fold your
bikini into a matchbox and head inland. Catch an overnight bus north to
claim your cave in Göreme . This low-key travellers’ hang-out is the
best place to base yourself in Cappadocia, a surreal moonscape with
phallic tuff cones, no less. For most the cones don’t overshadow the more
orthodox sights including the superb rock-cut frescoed churches of Göreme
Open-Air Museum and the spooky underground cities at Derinkuyu
and Kaymaklı
This is one trip you won’t forget a hurry. Pack your towel, pumps, pedometer - you’re seeing the sights of Old İstanbul, the highlights of the Aegean and the Mediterranean . coasts and finishing off in kooky Ephesus Cappadocia - a whopping 3100km of travel.
ROADS LESS TRAVELLED
EASTERN DELIGHTS Three to Four Weeks / Trabzon to Nemrut Dağı
Buzzing Trabzon has a handful of sights worth a quick look-see, though
most people head straight to nearby Sumela monastery , peering down
on a forested valley from its precarious-looking rockface. The route from
here to Kars is spectacular. First travel from Trabzon to Erzurum and then
continue via Yusufeli . The route is best done by car or taxi as you’d miss
the breathtaking views and ruined churches of medieval Georgia whizzing
past in a bus. The onward drive between Yusufeli, Artvin and Kars is one of
Turkey’s most scenic , with roadways passing over dramatic moun-
tain ranges, through gorges frothing with white water and past crumbling
castles. Kars is beguiling, but its star attraction is Ani (p581), close by,
once a thriving Armenian capital, but now a field strewn with magnificent
ruins overlooked by the border guards of modern Armenia.
Head south to the raffish frontier town of Doğubayazıt and the outstanding İshak Paşa Palace .
Further south is Van , its proud drawcards the nearby spectacular
Hoşap Castle and the 10th-century Akdamar church , the sole
inhabitant of a teeny island in Lake Van. The church’s superbly preserved
carvings just pip the wow factor on this church’s magnificent setting.
Heading west, don’t miss Hasankeyf , with its soaring rock-cut castle
by the ancient Tigris River, and Mardin , a gorgeous, honey-coloured town overlooking the roasting plains of Mesopotamia. From Mardin head north to Diyarbakır , the exotic heartland of Kurdish culture, its ancient sights ringed by even older city walls. Finally, see what all the fuss is about at Nemrut Dağı , the gigantic stone heads the only image of eastern Turkey that does make it into brochures
Escape the crowds and hightail it to the Turkey rarely seen in glossy tourist brochures, the other Turkey: the wild magnificent east. After it casts its spell you’ll find western Turkey downright tame. Some 2740km, and never a dull moment.
THE CARAVAN TRAIL Two Weeks / Kuşadası to Dıyarbakır
Caravanserais (see p57), dotting the routes of ancient trade routes, were
once the ancient equivalent of the roadhouse. Today they’re renovated as
historical sights and hotels, or are sadly crumbling away. All evoke the nights
of snorting animals tethered in the courtyard, with the rooms above abuzz
with the snores of travellers and merchants.
Spending a night at overblown Kuşadası is worth it for Club Caravanserai
, the pleasant rooms playing second fiddle to the ‘Turkish Nights’ show
in the courtyard. Plant your tongue in your cheek and enjoy. Head east to
famous Pamukkale, but instead of the travertines admire the beautiful carved
gateway of the Ak Han and the nearby Kaklık Cave, the underground
‘Pamukkale’ that tourists rarely see. Head north to Otel Dülgeroğlu (p311) in
Uşak, now a mighty fine hotel. Continue north to Bursa’s Koza Han (p296);
visit in June or September to join the heaving throng engaging in the age-old
haggle of the silk trade.
From Bursa, head east to the Cinci Han , as good excuse as any to
visit the World Heritage-listed Ottoman town of Safranbolu. From here
head south to Cappadocia, a region with more caravanserais than fleas on a
camel. Highlights include Ağzıkara Hanı , the superb Sultanhanı,
Turkey’s largest caravanserai, and Sultan Han, runner up to that title.
Sarıhan and Saruhan both offer something slightly different.
The first doubles as a set for whirling dervish sema and the latter is home
to a fine eatery. From Cappadocia head east to pit stop at Battalgazi ( p619 )
near Malatya. End your caravan journey in style at the atmospheric Otel
Büyük Kervansaray in beguiling Diyarbakır, Kurdish heartland and a
soulful city steeped in history.
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