BURSA
%0224 / pop 1.2 million
Sprawling off the slopes of Uludağ (Great
Mountain), Bursa may seem at first glance
like a purely modern metropolis. In fact, as the
first capital of the Ottoman Empire (during
the 14th century), the city can be considered
the birthplace of modern Turkish culture.
Its innumerable ancient buildings, includ-
ing those of the old spa suburb of Çekirge, a
centuries-old tourist draw, are a reminder of
Bursa’s weighty past.
Today, automobile and textile factories
provide the majority of local jobs, and there’s
affluence in abundance. The local government
maintains an admirable record of environ-
mental and progressive initiatives.
Besides its rich history, Bursa is renowned
in Turkey for the Bursa, or İskender, kebap –
döner kebap on a bed of fresh pide bread,
topped with tomato sauce, yogurt and melted
butter. Yum... You’ll find it all over the coun-
try, but here you can really go direct to the
source.
History
Bursa dates back to at least 200 BC. According
to legend, it was founded by Prusias, the King
of Bithynia, but soon came under the sway
of Eumenes II of Pergamum and thereafter
under Roman rule.
Bursa first grew to importance in the early
centuries of Christianity, when the thermal
baths at Çekirge ( p297 ) were first developed.
However, it was Justinian I (r AD 527–65)
who really put Bursa on the map.
With the decline of the Byzantine Em-
pire, Bursa’s location near Constantinople
attracted the interest of would-be conquerors,
including Arabs and Seljuks. Having seized
much of Anatolia by 1075, the Seljuks took
Bursa (then Prusa) with ease. But 22 years
later the First Crusade arrived, and the city
entered a cycle of conquest and reconquest,
changing hands periodically for the next 100
years.
After the Turkish migrations into Anatolia
during the 11th and 12th centuries, small
principalities arose around individual Turk-
ish warlords. One such warlord was Ertuğrul
Gazi, who formed a small state near Bursa.
In 1317 Bursa was besieged by his son Os-
man’s forces and was starved into submission
on 6 April 1326. Under the rule of Osman
Gazi, Bursa became the capital of the nascent
empire that took Osman’s name, Osmanlı
(Ottoman).
Osman was succeeded by Orhan Gazi (r
1326–59), who expanded the empire to in-
clude everything from what is now Ankara to
Adrianople (Edirne), effectively encircling the
Byzantine capital at Constantinople. Orhan
took the title of sultan, struck the first Otto-
man coinage, and, near the end of his reign,
was able to dictate to the Byzantine emperors,
one of whom, John VI Cantacuzene, became
his close ally and father-in-law.
Although the Ottoman capital moved to
Edirne in 1402, Bursa remained an important
city. Both Osman and Orhan were buried
there; their tombs are still important monu-
ments ( p296 ).
With the founding of the Turkish Republic,
Bursa started to develop as an industrial cen-
tre. In the 1960s and ‘70s boom times arrived
as Fiat (Tofaş) and Renault established factor-
ies here. Today it’s still a major commercial
centre and one of Turkey’s wealthiest cities.
Orientation
Bursa’s main square is Cumhuriyet Alanı
(Republic Sq), usually known as Heykel
(Statue) because of its large Atatürk monu-
ment. Atatürk Caddesi runs west from Heykel
through the commercial centre to the Ulu
Cami (Great Mosque). Further west stands the
striking blue-glass pyramid of the Zafer Plaza
shopping centre, a handy landmark to look for
as you approach the city centre.
Heading northwest, Atatürk Cad-
desi becomes Cemal Nadir Caddesi, then
Altıparmak Caddesi and afterwards Çekirge
Caddesi, which leads to the spa suburb
of Çekirge, about a 10-minute bus ride away.
Çekirge is where you’ll find many of the spa
hotels.
East of Heykel, at Setbaşı, Namazgah Cad-
desi crosses the Gök Stream (Gök Deresi),
which tumbles through a dramatic gorge. Just
after the stream, Yeşil Caddesi branches off
to the left to the Yeşil Camii and Yeşil Türbe,
after which it changes names to become Emir
Sultan Caddesi.
From Heykel, Setbaşı and Atatürk Caddesi
you can catch dolmuşes and buses to all parts
of the city.
Information
There’s a post office and numerous banks with
ATMs on Atatürk Caddesi (Map pp294–5 ),
and plenty of exchange offices in the Kapalı
Çarşı (Covered Market; Map pp294–5 ).
Discover Internet Centre (Map pp294–5 ; Taşkapı
Caddesi; per hr €0.70; h9am-midnight)
FiMa Bookshop (Map pp294–5 ; Atatürk Caddesi) Sells
English-language newspapers.
Met Internet (Map p292 ; Yılmazsoy İşhanı 6, Hocaalizade
Caddesi; per hr €1.10; h9am-midnight)
Tourist Office (Map pp294–5 ; %220-1848; h8am-
noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Beneath Atatürk Caddesi, in the
row of shops at the north entrance to Orhan Gazi Alt Geçidi.
Dangers & Annoyances
Heavy traffic makes it almost impossible to
cross Atatürk Caddesi, so you will have to use
the alt geçidi (pedestrian underpasses). The
Atatürk Alt Geçidi (the one nearest to Heykel)
has a lift for disabled people; the nearby florist
has the key to operate it.
Sights & Activities
EMİR SULTAN CAMİİ
Rebuilt by Selim III in 1805 and restored in
the early 1990s, the Emir Sultan Camii (Map
p292 ) echoes the romantic decadence of
Ottoman rococo style, rich in wood, curves
and painted arches on the outside. The inter-
ior is surprisingly plain, but the setting, next
to a large hillside cemetery surrounded by
huge trees and overlooking the city and valley,
is as pleasant as the mosque itself.
To reach the mosque, take a dolmuş head-
ing for Emirsultan or any bus with ‘Emirsul-
tan’ in its name. If you walk between here and
Sprawling off the slopes of Uludağ (Great
Mountain), Bursa may seem at first glance
like a purely modern metropolis. In fact, as the
first capital of the Ottoman Empire (during
the 14th century), the city can be considered
the birthplace of modern Turkish culture.
Its innumerable ancient buildings, includ-
ing those of the old spa suburb of Çekirge, a
centuries-old tourist draw, are a reminder of
Bursa’s weighty past.
Today, automobile and textile factories
provide the majority of local jobs, and there’s
affluence in abundance. The local government
maintains an admirable record of environ-
mental and progressive initiatives.
Besides its rich history, Bursa is renowned
in Turkey for the Bursa, or İskender, kebap –
döner kebap on a bed of fresh pide bread,
topped with tomato sauce, yogurt and melted
butter. Yum... You’ll find it all over the coun-
try, but here you can really go direct to the
source.
History
Bursa dates back to at least 200 BC. According
to legend, it was founded by Prusias, the King
of Bithynia, but soon came under the sway
of Eumenes II of Pergamum and thereafter
under Roman rule.
Bursa first grew to importance in the early
centuries of Christianity, when the thermal
baths at Çekirge ( p297 ) were first developed.
However, it was Justinian I (r AD 527–65)
who really put Bursa on the map.
With the decline of the Byzantine Em-
pire, Bursa’s location near Constantinople
attracted the interest of would-be conquerors,
including Arabs and Seljuks. Having seized
much of Anatolia by 1075, the Seljuks took
Bursa (then Prusa) with ease. But 22 years
later the First Crusade arrived, and the city
entered a cycle of conquest and reconquest,
changing hands periodically for the next 100
years.
After the Turkish migrations into Anatolia
during the 11th and 12th centuries, small
principalities arose around individual Turk-
ish warlords. One such warlord was Ertuğrul
Gazi, who formed a small state near Bursa.
In 1317 Bursa was besieged by his son Os-
man’s forces and was starved into submission
on 6 April 1326. Under the rule of Osman
Gazi, Bursa became the capital of the nascent
empire that took Osman’s name, Osmanlı
(Ottoman).
Osman was succeeded by Orhan Gazi (r
1326–59), who expanded the empire to in-
clude everything from what is now Ankara to
Adrianople (Edirne), effectively encircling the
Byzantine capital at Constantinople. Orhan
took the title of sultan, struck the first Otto-
man coinage, and, near the end of his reign,
was able to dictate to the Byzantine emperors,
one of whom, John VI Cantacuzene, became
his close ally and father-in-law.
Although the Ottoman capital moved to
Edirne in 1402, Bursa remained an important
city. Both Osman and Orhan were buried
there; their tombs are still important monu-
ments ( p296 ).
With the founding of the Turkish Republic,
Bursa started to develop as an industrial cen-
tre. In the 1960s and ‘70s boom times arrived
as Fiat (Tofaş) and Renault established factor-
ies here. Today it’s still a major commercial
centre and one of Turkey’s wealthiest cities.
Orientation
Bursa’s main square is Cumhuriyet Alanı
(Republic Sq), usually known as Heykel
(Statue) because of its large Atatürk monu-
ment. Atatürk Caddesi runs west from Heykel
through the commercial centre to the Ulu
Cami (Great Mosque). Further west stands the
striking blue-glass pyramid of the Zafer Plaza
shopping centre, a handy landmark to look for
as you approach the city centre.
Heading northwest, Atatürk Cad-
desi becomes Cemal Nadir Caddesi, then
Altıparmak Caddesi and afterwards Çekirge
Caddesi, which leads to the spa suburb
of Çekirge, about a 10-minute bus ride away.
Çekirge is where you’ll find many of the spa
hotels.
East of Heykel, at Setbaşı, Namazgah Cad-
desi crosses the Gök Stream (Gök Deresi),
which tumbles through a dramatic gorge. Just
after the stream, Yeşil Caddesi branches off
to the left to the Yeşil Camii and Yeşil Türbe,
after which it changes names to become Emir
Sultan Caddesi.
From Heykel, Setbaşı and Atatürk Caddesi
you can catch dolmuşes and buses to all parts
of the city.
Information
There’s a post office and numerous banks with
ATMs on Atatürk Caddesi (Map pp294–5 ),
and plenty of exchange offices in the Kapalı
Çarşı (Covered Market; Map pp294–5 ).
Discover Internet Centre (Map pp294–5 ; Taşkapı
Caddesi; per hr €0.70; h9am-midnight)
FiMa Bookshop (Map pp294–5 ; Atatürk Caddesi) Sells
English-language newspapers.
Met Internet (Map p292 ; Yılmazsoy İşhanı 6, Hocaalizade
Caddesi; per hr €1.10; h9am-midnight)
Tourist Office (Map pp294–5 ; %220-1848; h8am-
noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Beneath Atatürk Caddesi, in the
row of shops at the north entrance to Orhan Gazi Alt Geçidi.
Dangers & Annoyances
Heavy traffic makes it almost impossible to
cross Atatürk Caddesi, so you will have to use
the alt geçidi (pedestrian underpasses). The
Atatürk Alt Geçidi (the one nearest to Heykel)
has a lift for disabled people; the nearby florist
has the key to operate it.
Sights & Activities
EMİR SULTAN CAMİİ
Rebuilt by Selim III in 1805 and restored in
the early 1990s, the Emir Sultan Camii (Map
p292 ) echoes the romantic decadence of
Ottoman rococo style, rich in wood, curves
and painted arches on the outside. The inter-
ior is surprisingly plain, but the setting, next
to a large hillside cemetery surrounded by
huge trees and overlooking the city and valley,
is as pleasant as the mosque itself.
To reach the mosque, take a dolmuş head-
ing for Emirsultan or any bus with ‘Emirsul-
tan’ in its name. If you walk between here and
he Yeşil Camii and Yeşil Türbe, you’ll pass a
cemetery, which contains the grave of Kebapcı
İskender, the kebap maestro himself.
YEŞİL CAMİİ & YEŞİL TÜRBE
A few minutes’ walk uphill from Setbaşı, the
Yeşil Camii (Green Mosque; Map p292 ), built
for Mehmet I between 1419 and 1424, is a
supremely beautiful building that represents
a turning point in Turkish architectural style.
Before this, Turkish mosques echoed the Per-
sian style of the Seljuks, but in the Yeşil Camii
a purely Turkish style emerged, and its influ-
ence is visible in Ottoman architecture across
the country. Note the harmonious façade and
the beautiful carved marble work around the
central doorway.
As you enter, you pass beneath the sultan’s
private apartments into a domed central hall
with a 15m-high mihrab (niche indicating
the direction of Mecca). The greenish-blue
tiles on the interior walls gave the mosque its
name, and there are also fragments of a few
original frescoes.
Inside the main entrance a narrow staircase
leads up to the sumptuously tiled and deco-
rated hünkar mahfili (sultan’s private box)
above the main door. This was the sultan’s
living quarters when he chose to stay here,
with his harem and household staff in less
plush digs on either side.
In the small park surrounding the mosque
is the Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb; Map p292 ; admission free;
h8am-noon & 1-5pm), which unlike the mosque is
not actually green; the blue exterior tiles were
added during restoration work in the 19th
century, although the interior tiles are origi-
nal. Walk round the outside to see the tiled
calligraphy above several windows. Inside, the
most prominent tomb is that of the Yeşil Ca-
mi’s founder, Mehmet I (Çelebi), surrounded
by those of his children. There’s also an im-
pressive tiled mihrab.
Down the road from the Yeşil Camii is
its medrese (seminary), which now houses
the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum (Map p292 ; admis-
sion €1.10; h8am-noon & 1-5pm). The collection
includes pre-Ottoman İznik ceramics, the
original door and mihrab curtains from the
Yeşil Camii, jewellery, embroidery, calligraphy
and dervish artefacts, most with unusually
coherent English captions
YILDIRIM BEYAZIT CAMİİ
Gazing across the valley from the Emir Sul-
tan Camii, you’ll spot the twin domes of the
Yıldırım Beyazıt Camii (Mosque of Beyazıt the
Thunderbolt, 1391; Map p292 ), which was
built earlier than the Yeşil Camii but forms
part of the same architectural evolution.
Next to the mosque is its medrese, once a
theological seminary, now a public health cen-
tre. Here, too, are the tombs of the mosque’s
founder, the thunderous Sultan Beyazıt I,
and his son İsa.
IRGANDI SANAT KÖPRÜSÜ
Crossing the river just north of the Setbaşı
road bridge, the IrgandıBridge(Mapp292 ) has
been restored in Ottoman style as a charming
dual row of tiny yellow shops, selling handi-
crafts and other items under their tiled roofs.
A couple of little cafés make it a nice spot for
a browse and a cuppa.
TOFAŞ MUSEUM OF ANATOLIAN CARRIAGES
A short uphill walk south from Setbaşı, along
Sakaldöken Caddesi, will bring you to what
was once a silk factory and is now a small
museum (Map p292 ; %329 3941; KapıcıCaddesi, Yıldırım;
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). It exhibits old carts along-
side old cars, and could be somewhere to
bring the kids when they get tired of mosques.
The museum grounds are laid out as an Otto-
man garden – great for picnicking.
BURSA CITY MUSEUM
Bursa has a state-of-the-art City Museum (Bursa
Kent Müzesi; Map pp294-5 ; %220 2486; www.bursakent
muzesi.gov.tr; admission €0.85; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri,
10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun), housed in what was once
the old courthouse at Heykel. Ground-floor
exhibits whip through the history of the
city, with information on the sultans most
closely associated with it. Unfortunately, the
labelling is in Turkish only, apart from the
section headings. Luckily the cultural and
ethnographical collections upstairs need little
explanation, while down in the basement the
reconstructions of old shops are wonderful,
with films showing old-fashioned artisans at
work. Newspaper clippings also show a couple
of local characters to look out for: Deli Ayten,
the banjo-playing bag lady, and ‘Tarzan Ali’,
59-year-old former action hero
Behind the Ulu Cami, Bursa’s sprawling Kapalı
Çarşı (Covered Market; Map pp294-5 ) is a
great place to while away a few hours, espe-
cially if you find İstanbul’s Grand Bazaar too
touristy. At the centre of the Kapalı Çarşı,
the bedesten (vaulted, fireproof enclosure for
valuable goods) was built in the late 14th
century by Yıldırım Beyazıt, although it was
reconstructed after an earthquake in 1855.
The market is renowned for its high-quality
towels and bathrobes, should you have space
in your luggage for such bulky items.
As you wander around, look for the Eski
AynalıÇarşı (Old Mirrored Market), which was
origin ally the Orhangazi Hamam (1335) – the
bathhouse of the Orhan Camii Külliyesi – as
indicated by the domed ceiling with its sky-
lights. This is a good place to shop for Karagöz
shadow puppets and other traditional items.
The Kapalı Çarşı tumbles out into the sur-
rounding streets, but at some point you will
find the gateway into the Koza Han (Cocoon
Caravanserai), which was built in 1490. Un-
surprisingly, the building is full of expensive
ipek (silk) shops. In the courtyard is a small
mosque constructed for Yıldırım Beyazıt in
1491.
Beside the Ulu Cami is the Emir Han, used
by many of Bursa’s silk brokers. Camels from
the silk caravans used to be corralled here and
goods stored in the ground-floor rooms, while
drovers and merchants slept and conducted
business in the rooms above. It has a lovely
fountain in its courtyard tea garden.
ULU CAMİ
Prominently positioned on Atatürk Caddesi
is the huge Ulu Cami (Map pp294-5 ), which
is completely Seljuk in style and easily the
most imposing of Bursa’s mosques. Yıldırım
Beyazıt put up the money for the monumental
building in 1396. Twenty small domes and a
minaret of daunting girth augment the exte-
rior, while inside the size theme continues
with immense portals and a forest of square
pillars. Notice the fine work of the mimber
(pulpit) and the preacher’s chair, as well as
the calligraphy on the walls.
TOMBS OF SULTANS OSMAN & ORHAN
A steep cliff riddled with archaeological work-
ings overlooks Cemal Nadir Caddesi. This
section of town, the oldest in Bursa, was once
enclosed by stone ramparts and walls, parts of
which still survive. From the Ulu Cami, walk
west and up Orhan Gazi (Yiğitler) Caddesi,
a ramplike street that leads to the section
known as Hisar (Fortress) or Tophane.
In a little park on the summit are the Tombs
of Sultans Osman and Orhan (Osman Gazi ve Orhan Gazi
Türbeleri; Map pp294-5 ; admission by donation), founders
of the Ottoman Empire. The original struc-
tures were destroyed in the earthquake of 1855
and rebuilt in Ottoman baroque style by Sul-
tan Abdül Aziz in 1868. Osman Gazi’s tomb is
the more richly decorated of the two. Remove
your shoes before entering either tomb.
Next to the tombs, one of those ‘distance
to everywhere’ signs slightly undermines the
gravitas of the monuments, though it’s inter-
esting to note that you’re nearer Azerbaijan
than Germany, and denizens of Tiffin, Ohio,
are doubtless thrilled to learn they’re 9,600km
from home. In the grounds, a six-storey clock
tower is the last of four that originally doub-
led as fire alarms. Beside the clock tower is
a delightful tea garden with fine views over
the valley.
THE SILK TRADE
Silkworm-raising is a local cottage industry,
with a history almost as long as the city it-
self. Each April, villagers buy silkworms from
the cooperatives, take them home and feed
them on mulberry leaves. Once the worms
have spun their cocoons they are brought
to the Koza Han to be sold. If you visit in
June or September, you may see some of
the 14,000 villagers who engage in the
trade haggling over huge sacks of precious
white cocoons
MURADİYE COMPLEX
With a shady park in front and a quiet cem-
etery behind, the Sultan II Murat (Muradiye) Camii
(Map p292 ) is a peaceful oasis in a busy city.
The mosque itself dates from 1426 and imi-
tates the style of the Yeşil Cami, with painted
decorations and a very intricate mihrab.
Beside the mosque are 12 tombs (admission
€2; h8.30am-noon & 1-5pm) that date from the
15th and 16th centuries, including that of
Sultan Murat II (r 1421–51) himself. Like
other Islamic dynasties, the Ottoman one
was not based on primogeniture, so any son
of a sultan could claim the throne upon his
father’s death. As a result the designated heir
(or strongest son) would often have his broth-
ers put to death rather than risk civil war, and
many of the occupants of tombs here, includ-
ing all the şehzades (imperial sons), were killed
by close relatives.
The custodian will open certain buildings
for you, and it’s well worth having a look
at the beautiful decoration in some of the
tombs.
Across the park from the mosque is the
Ottoman House Museum (OsmanlıEvi Müzesi; admission
€1.30; h10am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun), which should
now be open, although it’s pot luck whether
you find anyone there even during normal
opening hours. On the western side of the
tombs is the 15th-century Muradiye Medresesi,
a theological seminary restored in 1951 as a
tuberculosis clinic.
Also nearby is the Ulumay Museum of Ottoman
Folk Costumes & Jewellery (Osmanlı Halk Kıyafetleri ve
TakılarıMüzesi; İkincimurat Caddesi; admission €2.80; h9am-
7pm), an impressive private collection opened
in the restored 1475 Sair Ahmet Paşa medrese
in 2004. Affable owner-curator Esat Ulumay,
a former economist and sword-dancer now
considered a leading expert in Ottoman cos-
tume, likes to take visitors round the displays
personally.
A short walk uphill behind the Sultan
Murat II Hamam (follow the signs) brings
you to the restored Ottoman Hüsnü Züber Evi
(Uzunyol Sokak 3; admission €1.30; h10am-noon & 1-5pm
Tue-Sun). Like the Ottoman House it’s sporad-
ically staffed, but worth a try anyway.
To get to the complex from Heykel catch a
bus or dolmuş to Muradiye. Some buses from
Çekirge to Heykel also pass this way.
CULTURE PARK
The Culture Park (Kültür Parkı; Map p292 ) lies
north of the Muradiye complex but some
way down the hill. The whole park was re-
landscaped in 2006, and may take a couple of
seasons to recover. As well as tea gardens and
playgrounds, the park houses the Archaeological
Museum (Arkeoloji Müzesi; admission €1.10; h8am-noon &
1-5pm Tue-Sun), a predominantly classical collec-
tion of finds from local sites with little in the
way of context or English signage.
Across the road is Atatürk House (Atatürk Evi;
admission free; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun), a
swish 1895 chalet in a pretty garden, with
restored rooms set up as they would have been
during the Father of Turkey’s occasional visits
(complete with freaky stuffed dog).
You can reach the Culture Park from Heykel
by any bus or dolmuş going to Altıparmak,
Sigorta or Çekirge.
ÇEKIRGE
An old suburb west of the busy city centre,
Çekirgeis Bursa’s spa centre.The warm mineral-
rich waters that spring from the slopes of
Uludağ have been famous for their cura-
tive powers since ancient times, and even
today the ailing and infirm come here for
several weeks at a time to soak. Most people
stay in hotels that have their own mineral
baths, although there are several independent
kaplıcalar (thermal baths) as well.
The Yeni Kaplıca (%236 6955; Mudanya Caddesi 10;
h6am-11pm), on the northwestern side of the
Culture Park, was renovated in 1522 by Sul-
tan Süleyman the Magnificent’s grand vizier,
Rüstem Paşa, on the site of a much older bath
built by Justinian. Besides the Yeni (New) bath
itself, you’ll also find the Kaynarca (Boiling)
baths, limited to women; and the Karamustafa
baths, with facilities for family bathing. Last
admission is at 10pm; the full massage costs
€11.10 per half hour.
Perhaps the most attractive bath is the
beautifully restored Eski Kaplıca (Map p292 ; %233
9300; admission €11.10; h7am-10.30pm) on Çekirge’s
eastern outskirts, managed by the next-door
Kervansaray Termal Hotel. The bath is done
out in creamy marble, and the hot rooms
have plunge pools. You’ll be charged for every-
thing right down to the soap, so figure on
spending up to €30 for the full bath, scrub
and massage.
For the lowdown on hamam etiquette, see
p651 .
Çekirge’s other main feature is the unusual I
Murat (Hüdavendiğar) Camii, behind the Ada Palas
Oteli. Its basic design is the early-Ottoman
inverted ‘T’ plan, which first appeared in the
Nilüfer Hatun imaretı (soup kitchen) in İznik
( p289 ). Here, however, the ‘T’ wings are bar-
rel-vaulted rather than dome-topped. On the
ground floor at the front are the rooms of a
zaviye (dervish hostel). The 2nd-floor gallery
on the facade, built as a medrese, is not evident
from within except for the sultan’s loge (box)
in the middle at the back of the mosque.
The huge sarcophagus of Sultan Murat I (r
1359–89), who died at Kosovo quelling a
rebellion by his Albanian, Bosnian, Bulgar-
ian, Hungarian and Serbian subjects, can be
viewed in the tomb across the street.
Çekirge’s main street is I Murat Caddesi
(Birinci Murat Caddesi). To get here, take a
bus or dolmuş from Heykel or Atatürk Cad-
desi to Çekirge or SSK Hastanesi. Bus No 96
goes direct from the otogar to Çekirge.
Festivals & Events
The renowned Uluslararasi Bursa Festival (www
.bursafestivali.org, in Turkish), Bursa’s long-standing
citywide music and dance festival, runs for
three weeks in June and July.
Every November the Karagöz Festival draws
Karagöz shadow puppeteers (see p297 ), West-
ern puppeteers and marionette per formers
to Bursa for five days of festivities and
performances.
Tours
Karagöz Travel Agency (Map p294-5; %221-8727; www
.karagoztravel.com; Kapalıçarşı, Eski AynalıÇarşı4) offers an
interesting range of local tours, including city
tours and trips to Cumalıkızık ( p302 ).
Sleeping
Though a little pricier than elsewhere, Çekirge
(3km east of Central Bursa) offers the most
attractive sleeping options in Bursa. The ma-
jority of hotels here have their own bathing
facilities. You may find that your bathroom
runs only mineral water, or there may be pri-
vate or public bathing rooms in the basement.
Baths are usually included in the room price,
so do take advantage of them.
ÇEKIRGE & SOĞANLI
Yeşil Yayla Termal Otel (%239 6496; Selvi Sokak 6) This
original 1950s hotel was being renovated at
time of research, but will hopefully remain
Çekirge’s cheapest choice.
Çekirge Termal Hotel (%233 9335; Hamam Sokak 25;
s/d/tr €23/39/50) It won’t win any design prizes,
but as big orange blocks go, you could prob-
ably do worse. The rooms are functional
rather than impressive, so make the most of
the free baths.
Termal Hotel Gold 2 (%235 6030; www.otelgold.com;
I Murat Cami Aralığı; s/d/tr €28/50/67; a) This restored
1878 house next to the I Murat Camii is a
great choice in a quiet location, decked out
in full wooden interiors, ‘period’ furniture
and deep red drapery. Baths and parking are
included, and the roof terrace is a bonus.
Boyugüzel Termal Otel (%239 9999; www.boyuguzel
.com; Uludağ Caddesi; s/d/tr €39/62/75; ai) Mostly
modern but with a few character touches
around the lobby bar; rooms here are smart
and well put-together. Rates include a daily
mineral bath.
Atlas Termal Hotel (%234 4100; www.atlastotel.com
.tr; Hamamlar Caddesi 29; s/d/tr €45/67/84; a) Another
restored building blending modern and trad-
itional style, with lots of pine fittings and
a sunny internal courtyard. Prices include
thermal bath.
Hotel Çelik Palas (Map p292 ; %233 3800; Çekirge
Caddesi 79; s/d €134/150; ais) Overlooking
the Culture Park midway between Çekirge
and Heykel, this is a huge, partially Art Deco
hotel with a gorgeous indoor swimming pool,
a hamam, two restaurants and rooms with all
mod cons. Atatürk had it built right beside
his house to accommodate his guests, piping
the mineral water all the way from Çekirge.
Unfortunately, you’ll usually wind up staying
in the modern annexe.
Otantik Club Hotel (%211 3280; www.otantikclub
hotel.com; Soğanlı; d €78, ste €130; as) One of Bur-
sa’s best hotels, tucked away in a botanical gar-
den in the suburb of Soğanlı. All the rooms are
gorgeous, but the suites, with the sun stream-
ing through their stained-glass windows onto
gorgeous Ottoman-style fabrics, are exquisite.
Extras include a children’s play area, bicycles
for loan and a small cinema.
CENTRAL BURSA
Hotel Güneş (Map pp294-5 ; %222 1404; otelgunes@yahoo
.com; İnebey Caddesi 75; s/d/tr/q with shared bathroom
€13/23/25/34) In a restored Ottoman house,
the friendly family-run Güneş is Bursa’s best
budget pension. The small, neat rooms have
new laminate floors, the bathrooms have
squat toilets and the walls have tourist-board
photos of Turkey. There’s a pleasant sitting
area downstairs with lots of information for
travellers.
Hotel Çeşmeli (Map pp294-5 ; %224 1511; Gümüşçeken
Caddesi 6; s/d €25/38) Named for the ablutions
fountain outside, the Çeşmeli is friendly, clean
and conveniently located, plus the entire staff
is female, making it an excellent choice for
women travellers. The buffet breakfast is
excellent, and you even get a minibar and
hairdryer.
Hotel Artıç (Map pp294-5 ; %224 5505; www.artichotel
.com; Ulu Camii Karşısı 95; s/d/tr €28/45/62; a) A de-
cent new arrival towards the western end of
Atatürk Caddesi. Rooms are light and fairly
spacious, though the décor’s drab and the
singles substandard. The communal areas are
best, with Ulu Camii views from the breakfast
salon. Posted rates are considerably higher
and not really worth it.
Hotel Efehan (Map pp294-5 ; %225 2260; www.efehan
.com.tr; Gümüşçeken Caddesi 34; s/d €31/48/56) Revel-
ling in a spot of modern style with plenty of
marble, the Efehan has all-round appeal and is
definitely good value for the central location.
At certain times school-age staff may barely
register your presence, but the grown-ups are
more professional.
Safran Otel (Map pp294-5 ; %224 7216; safran_otel@
yahoo.com; Arka Sokak 4, Tophane; s/d €31/56; a) Oppo-
site the Osman and Orhan tombs, the Safran
is housed in a characterful restored house in
a historic neighbourhood. The Ottoman trap-
pings don’t extend to the rooms, but it’s an
inviting place and has a decent restaurant next
door.
Eating
As well as the legendary İskender kebap, Bursa
is well known for İnegöl köftesi, a rich grilled
meatball named after nearby İnegöl. Other
culinary specialities include fresh fruit (espe-
cially şeftali – peaches – in season) and kestane
şekeri (candied chestnuts).
RESTAURANTS
It’s surprisingly hard to find a good İskender
in Bursa. Prices start around €3.50 for bir
porsyon (one serving) or €4.50 if you pig out
and order bir buçuk porsyon (1½ portions).
Çiçek Izgara (Map pp294-5 ; %221 6526; Belediye
Caddesi 15; mains €1.70-6; h11am-9.30pm) One block
from Koza Parkı, behind the half-timbered bele-
diye, the Çiçek grillhouse is bright and modern
(good for lone women), with a 1st-floor salon
to catch the flower-market action.
Şehr-i Safa (Map pp294-5 ; %222 8080; Atatürk Caddesi
29; meals from €2.80; h9am-10pm) Get high on fast
food: this popular canteen occupies a high-
rise terrace up above the trees and houses of
Atatürk Caddesi, overlooking Heykel. Meal
deals usually include a main, salad and soft
drink.
Bursa Hakimevi (Map p292 ; %233 4900; Çekirge
Caddesi 10; mains €2.50-5; hnoon-10pm) It’s taken a
while, but this restored Ottoman house on the
edge of the Culture Park has finally reopened
in tastefully low-key restaurant form. The
like a strip club, but Gogo’s is actually a char-
acterful backroad restaurant with a lovely
terrace full of random baroque Ottoman odds
and ends. Occasional art shows and events
are held here.
Kebapçı İskender (Map pp294-5 ; %221 4615; Ünlü
Caddesi 7; mains €4-16.50; h10am-10pm) This legen-
dary kebap shop dates back to 1867 and its
owners claim to be descendants of İskender
Usta himself. However, at €7.50 a portion
you’re paying a lot for a bit of history. There
are several branches around town, including
on Atatürk Caddesi, in Zafer Plaza and a
‘museum restaurant’ out in Soğanlı.
Yüce Hünkar (Map p292 ; %327 8910; Yeşil Cami Yanı
17-19; meals €9-17; h11am-10pm) The Hünkar has
a wonderful location overlooking a valley
in front of the Yeşil Cami, which just about
makes up for the tourist-trap prices.
Formerly part of Bursa’s Jewish quarter,
Sakarya Caddesi (Mapp292 ) acquired new fame
from one Arap Şükrü, who opened a restau-
rant here decades ago. It was so successful
that his descendants followed him into the
business, and the street now has no less than
five family restaurants of the same name, plus
the inevitable copycat competitors. The whole
upper end of the narrow lane is crammed with
tables, so you can wander down and check the
buzz before making your choice. Fish is the
speciality, starting around €6 per portion, but
meat and mezes are also available. Arap Şükrü
Yılmaz (Map p292 ; Sakarya Caddesi 4; h11am-11pm) is
reliably popular.
The street is on the northern side of the
Hisar district, just south of Altıparmak Cad-
desi. It’s about 10 minutes’ walk from the Ulu
Cami, or you can take a Çekirge-bound bus or
dolmuş from Heykel to the Çatal Fırın stop,
opposite the Sabahettin Paşa Camii.
CAFÉS & QUICK EATS
Café Demlik (Map p292 ; %326 4483; Yeşil Caddesi 25; dishes
from €1; h11am-9pm) This charming old house
has been converted into an Ottoman-style
eatery where you can sit on floor cushions and
get stuck into gözleme (savoury pancakes) .
Mahfel Mado (Map p292 ; %326 8888; Namazgah
Caddesi 2; mains €2.50-4.50; h8am-11pm) Now part
of the national Mado chain, Bursa’s oldest
café is open from breakfast to dessert. It also
has live music at its riverside terrace and an
art gallery in the basement.
SELF-CATERING
Self-caterers should head straight for Tahtakale
Çarsısı(Tahtakale Market; Map pp294-5 ) near
Hotel Güneş, for a great choice of fresh fruit,
vegetables and cheeses.
Drinking & Entertainment
After eating in Sakarya Caddesi, amble down
the road to take in one of its smart bars or
studenty cafés. The bar clientele is often heav-
ily male, and many places post signs reading
‘Damsız Girilmez’ (no men without ladies).
However, this applies mostly to groups of
young Turkish guys.
Barantico (Map p292 ; %222 4049; Sakarya Caddesi
55; drinks from €1; h11am-10pm) Tucked away in
a courtyard, this is the place to dabble in all
things occult, with tarot readings, séances
and the reading of coffee grains the order
of the day.
Café M (Map p292 ; %220 9428; Altıparmak Caddesi 9/D)
Modern, orange and generally rather cool,
M attracts a hip, mixed crowd of fashionable
young folk.
Piccolo Bar (Map p292 ; %223 5658; Sakarya Caddesi
16) A cosy pub that has live music most nights,
and seems to be popular with cigar-puffers.
Set Café&Pub (Map p292 ; %225-1162; Köprü Üstü)
Across the stream from the Mahfel Mado,
this multi-terraced pub has live music, Fosters
lager and an entertainingly confusing layout.
Laila (Map pp294-5 ; Atatürk Caddesi 91) Pitched as
a one-stop nightlife shop, Laila has an im-
pressive four floors of self-contained enter-
tainment, including all-day restaurant, café,
internet, live music room and disco.
Getting There & Away
Bursa’s otogar is 10km north of the centre on
the Yalova road. See opposite for informa-
tion on getting from the otogar to the city
centre and Çekirge. Information on some
major bus routes and fares is provided in the
table, opposite.
The fastest way to get to İstanbul (€5, 2½
to three hours) is to take a bus to Yalova, then
the İDO fast ferry (%444 4436; www.ido.com.tr) to
İstanbul’s Yenikapı docks. Get a bus that de-
parts Bursa’s bus terminal at least 90 minutes
before the scheduled boat departure.
Karayolu ile (by road) buses to İstanbul
drag you all around the Bay of İzmit and take
four to five hours. Those designated feribot ile
(by ferry) take you to Topçular, east of Yalova,
and then by ferry to Eskihisar, a much quicker
and more pleasant way to go.
The table below lists daily services on se-
lected routes from Bursa.
Getting Around
TO & FROM THE OTOGAR
City bus No 38 crawls the 10km between the
otogar and the city centre (€0.85, 45 min-
utes). Returning to the otogar, it leaves from
stop 4 on Atatürk Caddesi. Bus No 96 from
the otogar goes direct to Çekirge (€0.85, 40
minutes).
A taxi from the otogar to the city centre
costs around €8, to Çekirge about €9.
CITY BUS
Bursa’s city buses (BOİ; €0.85) have their
destinations and stops marked on the front
and kerb side. A major set of yellow bus stops
is lined up opposite Koza Parkı on Atatürk
Caddesi. Catch a bus from stop 1 for Emir-
sultan and Teleferik (Uludağ cable car); from
stop 2 for Muradiye; and from stop 4 for
Altıparmak and the Culture Park. You can
also pick up buses to the Botanik Parkı (No
15) and Cumalıkızık (No 22) from here.
All city buses now run on a prepay system;
you can buy tickets from kiosks or shops near
most bus stops (look out for the BursaKart
sign). If you’re staying for a few days there are
various multi-trip options available.
DOLMUŞ
In Bursa, cars and minibuses operate as
dolmuşes. The destination is indicated by an
illuminated sign on the roof. The minimum
fare is €0.70.
Dolmuşes go to Çekirge via the Culture
Park, Eski Kaplıca and I Murat Camii from
a major dolmuş terminal immediately south
of Heykel. Other dolmuşes wait in front of
Koza Parkı.
METRO
Bursa has an efficient modern metro system,
but as it serves only the outskirts of town
rather than the centre, it is seldom used by
visitors.
TAXI
A ride from Heykel to Muradiye costs about
€2, to Çekirge about €4.
cemetery, which contains the grave of Kebapcı
İskender, the kebap maestro himself.
YEŞİL CAMİİ & YEŞİL TÜRBE
A few minutes’ walk uphill from Setbaşı, the
Yeşil Camii (Green Mosque; Map p292 ), built
for Mehmet I between 1419 and 1424, is a
supremely beautiful building that represents
a turning point in Turkish architectural style.
Before this, Turkish mosques echoed the Per-
sian style of the Seljuks, but in the Yeşil Camii
a purely Turkish style emerged, and its influ-
ence is visible in Ottoman architecture across
the country. Note the harmonious façade and
the beautiful carved marble work around the
central doorway.
As you enter, you pass beneath the sultan’s
private apartments into a domed central hall
with a 15m-high mihrab (niche indicating
the direction of Mecca). The greenish-blue
tiles on the interior walls gave the mosque its
name, and there are also fragments of a few
original frescoes.
Inside the main entrance a narrow staircase
leads up to the sumptuously tiled and deco-
rated hünkar mahfili (sultan’s private box)
above the main door. This was the sultan’s
living quarters when he chose to stay here,
with his harem and household staff in less
plush digs on either side.
In the small park surrounding the mosque
is the Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb; Map p292 ; admission free;
h8am-noon & 1-5pm), which unlike the mosque is
not actually green; the blue exterior tiles were
added during restoration work in the 19th
century, although the interior tiles are origi-
nal. Walk round the outside to see the tiled
calligraphy above several windows. Inside, the
most prominent tomb is that of the Yeşil Ca-
mi’s founder, Mehmet I (Çelebi), surrounded
by those of his children. There’s also an im-
pressive tiled mihrab.
Down the road from the Yeşil Camii is
its medrese (seminary), which now houses
the Turkish & Islamic Arts Museum (Map p292 ; admis-
sion €1.10; h8am-noon & 1-5pm). The collection
includes pre-Ottoman İznik ceramics, the
original door and mihrab curtains from the
Yeşil Camii, jewellery, embroidery, calligraphy
and dervish artefacts, most with unusually
coherent English captions
YILDIRIM BEYAZIT CAMİİ
Gazing across the valley from the Emir Sul-
tan Camii, you’ll spot the twin domes of the
Yıldırım Beyazıt Camii (Mosque of Beyazıt the
Thunderbolt, 1391; Map p292 ), which was
built earlier than the Yeşil Camii but forms
part of the same architectural evolution.
Next to the mosque is its medrese, once a
theological seminary, now a public health cen-
tre. Here, too, are the tombs of the mosque’s
founder, the thunderous Sultan Beyazıt I,
and his son İsa.
IRGANDI SANAT KÖPRÜSÜ
Crossing the river just north of the Setbaşı
road bridge, the IrgandıBridge(Mapp292 ) has
been restored in Ottoman style as a charming
dual row of tiny yellow shops, selling handi-
crafts and other items under their tiled roofs.
A couple of little cafés make it a nice spot for
a browse and a cuppa.
TOFAŞ MUSEUM OF ANATOLIAN CARRIAGES
A short uphill walk south from Setbaşı, along
Sakaldöken Caddesi, will bring you to what
was once a silk factory and is now a small
museum (Map p292 ; %329 3941; KapıcıCaddesi, Yıldırım;
h10am-5pm Tue-Sun). It exhibits old carts along-
side old cars, and could be somewhere to
bring the kids when they get tired of mosques.
The museum grounds are laid out as an Otto-
man garden – great for picnicking.
BURSA CITY MUSEUM
Bursa has a state-of-the-art City Museum (Bursa
Kent Müzesi; Map pp294-5 ; %220 2486; www.bursakent
muzesi.gov.tr; admission €0.85; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri,
10am-6.30pm Sat & Sun), housed in what was once
the old courthouse at Heykel. Ground-floor
exhibits whip through the history of the
city, with information on the sultans most
closely associated with it. Unfortunately, the
labelling is in Turkish only, apart from the
section headings. Luckily the cultural and
ethnographical collections upstairs need little
explanation, while down in the basement the
reconstructions of old shops are wonderful,
with films showing old-fashioned artisans at
work. Newspaper clippings also show a couple
of local characters to look out for: Deli Ayten,
the banjo-playing bag lady, and ‘Tarzan Ali’,
59-year-old former action hero
MARKETS
Behind the Ulu Cami, Bursa’s sprawling Kapalı
Çarşı (Covered Market; Map pp294-5 ) is a
great place to while away a few hours, espe-
cially if you find İstanbul’s Grand Bazaar too
touristy. At the centre of the Kapalı Çarşı,
the bedesten (vaulted, fireproof enclosure for
valuable goods) was built in the late 14th
century by Yıldırım Beyazıt, although it was
reconstructed after an earthquake in 1855.
The market is renowned for its high-quality
towels and bathrobes, should you have space
in your luggage for such bulky items.
As you wander around, look for the Eski
AynalıÇarşı (Old Mirrored Market), which was
origin ally the Orhangazi Hamam (1335) – the
bathhouse of the Orhan Camii Külliyesi – as
indicated by the domed ceiling with its sky-
lights. This is a good place to shop for Karagöz
shadow puppets and other traditional items.
The Kapalı Çarşı tumbles out into the sur-
rounding streets, but at some point you will
find the gateway into the Koza Han (Cocoon
Caravanserai), which was built in 1490. Un-
surprisingly, the building is full of expensive
ipek (silk) shops. In the courtyard is a small
mosque constructed for Yıldırım Beyazıt in
1491.
Beside the Ulu Cami is the Emir Han, used
by many of Bursa’s silk brokers. Camels from
the silk caravans used to be corralled here and
goods stored in the ground-floor rooms, while
drovers and merchants slept and conducted
business in the rooms above. It has a lovely
fountain in its courtyard tea garden.
ULU CAMİ
Prominently positioned on Atatürk Caddesi
is the huge Ulu Cami (Map pp294-5 ), which
is completely Seljuk in style and easily the
most imposing of Bursa’s mosques. Yıldırım
Beyazıt put up the money for the monumental
building in 1396. Twenty small domes and a
minaret of daunting girth augment the exte-
rior, while inside the size theme continues
with immense portals and a forest of square
pillars. Notice the fine work of the mimber
(pulpit) and the preacher’s chair, as well as
the calligraphy on the walls.
TOMBS OF SULTANS OSMAN & ORHAN
A steep cliff riddled with archaeological work-
ings overlooks Cemal Nadir Caddesi. This
section of town, the oldest in Bursa, was once
enclosed by stone ramparts and walls, parts of
which still survive. From the Ulu Cami, walk
west and up Orhan Gazi (Yiğitler) Caddesi,
a ramplike street that leads to the section
known as Hisar (Fortress) or Tophane.
In a little park on the summit are the Tombs
of Sultans Osman and Orhan (Osman Gazi ve Orhan Gazi
Türbeleri; Map pp294-5 ; admission by donation), founders
of the Ottoman Empire. The original struc-
tures were destroyed in the earthquake of 1855
and rebuilt in Ottoman baroque style by Sul-
tan Abdül Aziz in 1868. Osman Gazi’s tomb is
the more richly decorated of the two. Remove
your shoes before entering either tomb.
Next to the tombs, one of those ‘distance
to everywhere’ signs slightly undermines the
gravitas of the monuments, though it’s inter-
esting to note that you’re nearer Azerbaijan
than Germany, and denizens of Tiffin, Ohio,
are doubtless thrilled to learn they’re 9,600km
from home. In the grounds, a six-storey clock
tower is the last of four that originally doub-
led as fire alarms. Beside the clock tower is
a delightful tea garden with fine views over
the valley.
THE SILK TRADE
Silkworm-raising is a local cottage industry,
with a history almost as long as the city it-
self. Each April, villagers buy silkworms from
the cooperatives, take them home and feed
them on mulberry leaves. Once the worms
have spun their cocoons they are brought
to the Koza Han to be sold. If you visit in
June or September, you may see some of
the 14,000 villagers who engage in the
trade haggling over huge sacks of precious
white cocoons
MURADİYE COMPLEX
With a shady park in front and a quiet cem-
etery behind, the Sultan II Murat (Muradiye) Camii
(Map p292 ) is a peaceful oasis in a busy city.
The mosque itself dates from 1426 and imi-
tates the style of the Yeşil Cami, with painted
decorations and a very intricate mihrab.
Beside the mosque are 12 tombs (admission
€2; h8.30am-noon & 1-5pm) that date from the
15th and 16th centuries, including that of
Sultan Murat II (r 1421–51) himself. Like
other Islamic dynasties, the Ottoman one
was not based on primogeniture, so any son
of a sultan could claim the throne upon his
father’s death. As a result the designated heir
(or strongest son) would often have his broth-
ers put to death rather than risk civil war, and
many of the occupants of tombs here, includ-
ing all the şehzades (imperial sons), were killed
by close relatives.
The custodian will open certain buildings
for you, and it’s well worth having a look
at the beautiful decoration in some of the
tombs.
Across the park from the mosque is the
Ottoman House Museum (OsmanlıEvi Müzesi; admission
€1.30; h10am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun), which should
now be open, although it’s pot luck whether
you find anyone there even during normal
opening hours. On the western side of the
tombs is the 15th-century Muradiye Medresesi,
a theological seminary restored in 1951 as a
tuberculosis clinic.
Also nearby is the Ulumay Museum of Ottoman
Folk Costumes & Jewellery (Osmanlı Halk Kıyafetleri ve
TakılarıMüzesi; İkincimurat Caddesi; admission €2.80; h9am-
7pm), an impressive private collection opened
in the restored 1475 Sair Ahmet Paşa medrese
in 2004. Affable owner-curator Esat Ulumay,
a former economist and sword-dancer now
considered a leading expert in Ottoman cos-
tume, likes to take visitors round the displays
personally.
A short walk uphill behind the Sultan
Murat II Hamam (follow the signs) brings
you to the restored Ottoman Hüsnü Züber Evi
(Uzunyol Sokak 3; admission €1.30; h10am-noon & 1-5pm
Tue-Sun). Like the Ottoman House it’s sporad-
ically staffed, but worth a try anyway.
To get to the complex from Heykel catch a
bus or dolmuş to Muradiye. Some buses from
Çekirge to Heykel also pass this way.
CULTURE PARK
The Culture Park (Kültür Parkı; Map p292 ) lies
north of the Muradiye complex but some
way down the hill. The whole park was re-
landscaped in 2006, and may take a couple of
seasons to recover. As well as tea gardens and
playgrounds, the park houses the Archaeological
Museum (Arkeoloji Müzesi; admission €1.10; h8am-noon &
1-5pm Tue-Sun), a predominantly classical collec-
tion of finds from local sites with little in the
way of context or English signage.
Across the road is Atatürk House (Atatürk Evi;
admission free; h8.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm Tue-Sun), a
swish 1895 chalet in a pretty garden, with
restored rooms set up as they would have been
during the Father of Turkey’s occasional visits
(complete with freaky stuffed dog).
You can reach the Culture Park from Heykel
by any bus or dolmuş going to Altıparmak,
Sigorta or Çekirge.
ÇEKIRGE
An old suburb west of the busy city centre,
Çekirgeis Bursa’s spa centre.The warm mineral-
rich waters that spring from the slopes of
Uludağ have been famous for their cura-
tive powers since ancient times, and even
today the ailing and infirm come here for
several weeks at a time to soak. Most people
stay in hotels that have their own mineral
baths, although there are several independent
kaplıcalar (thermal baths) as well.
The Yeni Kaplıca (%236 6955; Mudanya Caddesi 10;
h6am-11pm), on the northwestern side of the
Culture Park, was renovated in 1522 by Sul-
tan Süleyman the Magnificent’s grand vizier,
Rüstem Paşa, on the site of a much older bath
built by Justinian. Besides the Yeni (New) bath
itself, you’ll also find the Kaynarca (Boiling)
baths, limited to women; and the Karamustafa
baths, with facilities for family bathing. Last
admission is at 10pm; the full massage costs
€11.10 per half hour.
Perhaps the most attractive bath is the
beautifully restored Eski Kaplıca (Map p292 ; %233
9300; admission €11.10; h7am-10.30pm) on Çekirge’s
eastern outskirts, managed by the next-door
Kervansaray Termal Hotel. The bath is done
out in creamy marble, and the hot rooms
have plunge pools. You’ll be charged for every-
thing right down to the soap, so figure on
spending up to €30 for the full bath, scrub
and massage.
For the lowdown on hamam etiquette, see
p651 .
Çekirge’s other main feature is the unusual I
Murat (Hüdavendiğar) Camii, behind the Ada Palas
Oteli. Its basic design is the early-Ottoman
inverted ‘T’ plan, which first appeared in the
Nilüfer Hatun imaretı (soup kitchen) in İznik
( p289 ). Here, however, the ‘T’ wings are bar-
rel-vaulted rather than dome-topped. On the
ground floor at the front are the rooms of a
zaviye (dervish hostel). The 2nd-floor gallery
on the facade, built as a medrese, is not evident
from within except for the sultan’s loge (box)
in the middle at the back of the mosque.
The huge sarcophagus of Sultan Murat I (r
1359–89), who died at Kosovo quelling a
rebellion by his Albanian, Bosnian, Bulgar-
ian, Hungarian and Serbian subjects, can be
viewed in the tomb across the street.
Çekirge’s main street is I Murat Caddesi
(Birinci Murat Caddesi). To get here, take a
bus or dolmuş from Heykel or Atatürk Cad-
desi to Çekirge or SSK Hastanesi. Bus No 96
goes direct from the otogar to Çekirge.
Festivals & Events
The renowned Uluslararasi Bursa Festival (www
.bursafestivali.org, in Turkish), Bursa’s long-standing
citywide music and dance festival, runs for
three weeks in June and July.
Every November the Karagöz Festival draws
Karagöz shadow puppeteers (see p297 ), West-
ern puppeteers and marionette per formers
to Bursa for five days of festivities and
performances.
Tours
Karagöz Travel Agency (Map p294-5; %221-8727; www
.karagoztravel.com; Kapalıçarşı, Eski AynalıÇarşı4) offers an
interesting range of local tours, including city
tours and trips to Cumalıkızık ( p302 ).
Sleeping
Though a little pricier than elsewhere, Çekirge
(3km east of Central Bursa) offers the most
attractive sleeping options in Bursa. The ma-
jority of hotels here have their own bathing
facilities. You may find that your bathroom
runs only mineral water, or there may be pri-
vate or public bathing rooms in the basement.
Baths are usually included in the room price,
so do take advantage of them.
ÇEKIRGE & SOĞANLI
Yeşil Yayla Termal Otel (%239 6496; Selvi Sokak 6) This
original 1950s hotel was being renovated at
time of research, but will hopefully remain
Çekirge’s cheapest choice.
Çekirge Termal Hotel (%233 9335; Hamam Sokak 25;
s/d/tr €23/39/50) It won’t win any design prizes,
but as big orange blocks go, you could prob-
ably do worse. The rooms are functional
rather than impressive, so make the most of
the free baths.
Termal Hotel Gold 2 (%235 6030; www.otelgold.com;
I Murat Cami Aralığı; s/d/tr €28/50/67; a) This restored
1878 house next to the I Murat Camii is a
great choice in a quiet location, decked out
in full wooden interiors, ‘period’ furniture
and deep red drapery. Baths and parking are
included, and the roof terrace is a bonus.
Boyugüzel Termal Otel (%239 9999; www.boyuguzel
.com; Uludağ Caddesi; s/d/tr €39/62/75; ai) Mostly
modern but with a few character touches
around the lobby bar; rooms here are smart
and well put-together. Rates include a daily
mineral bath.
Atlas Termal Hotel (%234 4100; www.atlastotel.com
.tr; Hamamlar Caddesi 29; s/d/tr €45/67/84; a) Another
restored building blending modern and trad-
itional style, with lots of pine fittings and
a sunny internal courtyard. Prices include
thermal bath.
Hotel Çelik Palas (Map p292 ; %233 3800; Çekirge
Caddesi 79; s/d €134/150; ais) Overlooking
the Culture Park midway between Çekirge
and Heykel, this is a huge, partially Art Deco
hotel with a gorgeous indoor swimming pool,
a hamam, two restaurants and rooms with all
mod cons. Atatürk had it built right beside
his house to accommodate his guests, piping
the mineral water all the way from Çekirge.
Unfortunately, you’ll usually wind up staying
in the modern annexe.
Otantik Club Hotel (%211 3280; www.otantikclub
hotel.com; Soğanlı; d €78, ste €130; as) One of Bur-
sa’s best hotels, tucked away in a botanical gar-
den in the suburb of Soğanlı. All the rooms are
gorgeous, but the suites, with the sun stream-
ing through their stained-glass windows onto
gorgeous Ottoman-style fabrics, are exquisite.
Extras include a children’s play area, bicycles
for loan and a small cinema.
CENTRAL BURSA
Hotel Güneş (Map pp294-5 ; %222 1404; otelgunes@yahoo
.com; İnebey Caddesi 75; s/d/tr/q with shared bathroom
€13/23/25/34) In a restored Ottoman house,
the friendly family-run Güneş is Bursa’s best
budget pension. The small, neat rooms have
new laminate floors, the bathrooms have
squat toilets and the walls have tourist-board
photos of Turkey. There’s a pleasant sitting
area downstairs with lots of information for
travellers.
Hotel Çeşmeli (Map pp294-5 ; %224 1511; Gümüşçeken
Caddesi 6; s/d €25/38) Named for the ablutions
fountain outside, the Çeşmeli is friendly, clean
and conveniently located, plus the entire staff
is female, making it an excellent choice for
women travellers. The buffet breakfast is
excellent, and you even get a minibar and
hairdryer.
Hotel Artıç (Map pp294-5 ; %224 5505; www.artichotel
.com; Ulu Camii Karşısı 95; s/d/tr €28/45/62; a) A de-
cent new arrival towards the western end of
Atatürk Caddesi. Rooms are light and fairly
spacious, though the décor’s drab and the
singles substandard. The communal areas are
best, with Ulu Camii views from the breakfast
salon. Posted rates are considerably higher
and not really worth it.
Hotel Efehan (Map pp294-5 ; %225 2260; www.efehan
.com.tr; Gümüşçeken Caddesi 34; s/d €31/48/56) Revel-
ling in a spot of modern style with plenty of
marble, the Efehan has all-round appeal and is
definitely good value for the central location.
At certain times school-age staff may barely
register your presence, but the grown-ups are
more professional.
Safran Otel (Map pp294-5 ; %224 7216; safran_otel@
yahoo.com; Arka Sokak 4, Tophane; s/d €31/56; a) Oppo-
site the Osman and Orhan tombs, the Safran
is housed in a characterful restored house in
a historic neighbourhood. The Ottoman trap-
pings don’t extend to the rooms, but it’s an
inviting place and has a decent restaurant next
door.
Eating
As well as the legendary İskender kebap, Bursa
is well known for İnegöl köftesi, a rich grilled
meatball named after nearby İnegöl. Other
culinary specialities include fresh fruit (espe-
cially şeftali – peaches – in season) and kestane
şekeri (candied chestnuts).
RESTAURANTS
It’s surprisingly hard to find a good İskender
in Bursa. Prices start around €3.50 for bir
porsyon (one serving) or €4.50 if you pig out
and order bir buçuk porsyon (1½ portions).
Çiçek Izgara (Map pp294-5 ; %221 6526; Belediye
Caddesi 15; mains €1.70-6; h11am-9.30pm) One block
from Koza Parkı, behind the half-timbered bele-
diye, the Çiçek grillhouse is bright and modern
(good for lone women), with a 1st-floor salon
to catch the flower-market action.
Şehr-i Safa (Map pp294-5 ; %222 8080; Atatürk Caddesi
29; meals from €2.80; h9am-10pm) Get high on fast
food: this popular canteen occupies a high-
rise terrace up above the trees and houses of
Atatürk Caddesi, overlooking Heykel. Meal
deals usually include a main, salad and soft
drink.
Bursa Hakimevi (Map p292 ; %233 4900; Çekirge
Caddesi 10; mains €2.50-5; hnoon-10pm) It’s taken a
while, but this restored Ottoman house on the
edge of the Culture Park has finally reopened
in tastefully low-key restaurant form. The
menu’s unchallenging but the garden terrace
is perfect.
Gogo’s (Map pp294-5 ; %223 1113; Kirişçi Kız Sokak;
mains €2.80-5.50; h10.30am-10.30pm) It may soundlike a strip club, but Gogo’s is actually a char-
acterful backroad restaurant with a lovely
terrace full of random baroque Ottoman odds
and ends. Occasional art shows and events
are held here.
Kebapçı İskender (Map pp294-5 ; %221 4615; Ünlü
Caddesi 7; mains €4-16.50; h10am-10pm) This legen-
dary kebap shop dates back to 1867 and its
owners claim to be descendants of İskender
Usta himself. However, at €7.50 a portion
you’re paying a lot for a bit of history. There
are several branches around town, including
on Atatürk Caddesi, in Zafer Plaza and a
‘museum restaurant’ out in Soğanlı.
Yüce Hünkar (Map p292 ; %327 8910; Yeşil Cami Yanı
17-19; meals €9-17; h11am-10pm) The Hünkar has
a wonderful location overlooking a valley
in front of the Yeşil Cami, which just about
makes up for the tourist-trap prices.
Formerly part of Bursa’s Jewish quarter,
Sakarya Caddesi (Mapp292 ) acquired new fame
from one Arap Şükrü, who opened a restau-
rant here decades ago. It was so successful
that his descendants followed him into the
business, and the street now has no less than
five family restaurants of the same name, plus
the inevitable copycat competitors. The whole
upper end of the narrow lane is crammed with
tables, so you can wander down and check the
buzz before making your choice. Fish is the
speciality, starting around €6 per portion, but
meat and mezes are also available. Arap Şükrü
Yılmaz (Map p292 ; Sakarya Caddesi 4; h11am-11pm) is
reliably popular.
The street is on the northern side of the
Hisar district, just south of Altıparmak Cad-
desi. It’s about 10 minutes’ walk from the Ulu
Cami, or you can take a Çekirge-bound bus or
dolmuş from Heykel to the Çatal Fırın stop,
opposite the Sabahettin Paşa Camii.
CAFÉS & QUICK EATS
Café Demlik (Map p292 ; %326 4483; Yeşil Caddesi 25; dishes
from €1; h11am-9pm) This charming old house
has been converted into an Ottoman-style
eatery where you can sit on floor cushions and
get stuck into gözleme (savoury pancakes) .
Mahfel Mado (Map p292 ; %326 8888; Namazgah
Caddesi 2; mains €2.50-4.50; h8am-11pm) Now part
of the national Mado chain, Bursa’s oldest
café is open from breakfast to dessert. It also
has live music at its riverside terrace and an
art gallery in the basement.
SELF-CATERING
Self-caterers should head straight for Tahtakale
Çarsısı(Tahtakale Market; Map pp294-5 ) near
Hotel Güneş, for a great choice of fresh fruit,
vegetables and cheeses.
Drinking & Entertainment
After eating in Sakarya Caddesi, amble down
the road to take in one of its smart bars or
studenty cafés. The bar clientele is often heav-
ily male, and many places post signs reading
‘Damsız Girilmez’ (no men without ladies).
However, this applies mostly to groups of
young Turkish guys.
Barantico (Map p292 ; %222 4049; Sakarya Caddesi
55; drinks from €1; h11am-10pm) Tucked away in
a courtyard, this is the place to dabble in all
things occult, with tarot readings, séances
and the reading of coffee grains the order
of the day.
Café M (Map p292 ; %220 9428; Altıparmak Caddesi 9/D)
Modern, orange and generally rather cool,
M attracts a hip, mixed crowd of fashionable
young folk.
Piccolo Bar (Map p292 ; %223 5658; Sakarya Caddesi
16) A cosy pub that has live music most nights,
and seems to be popular with cigar-puffers.
Set Café&Pub (Map p292 ; %225-1162; Köprü Üstü)
Across the stream from the Mahfel Mado,
this multi-terraced pub has live music, Fosters
lager and an entertainingly confusing layout.
Laila (Map pp294-5 ; Atatürk Caddesi 91) Pitched as
a one-stop nightlife shop, Laila has an im-
pressive four floors of self-contained enter-
tainment, including all-day restaurant, café,
internet, live music room and disco.
Getting There & Away
Bursa’s otogar is 10km north of the centre on
the Yalova road. See opposite for informa-
tion on getting from the otogar to the city
centre and Çekirge. Information on some
major bus routes and fares is provided in the
table, opposite.
The fastest way to get to İstanbul (€5, 2½
to three hours) is to take a bus to Yalova, then
the İDO fast ferry (%444 4436; www.ido.com.tr) to
İstanbul’s Yenikapı docks. Get a bus that de-
parts Bursa’s bus terminal at least 90 minutes
before the scheduled boat departure.
Karayolu ile (by road) buses to İstanbul
drag you all around the Bay of İzmit and take
four to five hours. Those designated feribot ile
(by ferry) take you to Topçular, east of Yalova,
and then by ferry to Eskihisar, a much quicker
and more pleasant way to go.
The table below lists daily services on se-
lected routes from Bursa.
Getting Around
TO & FROM THE OTOGAR
City bus No 38 crawls the 10km between the
otogar and the city centre (€0.85, 45 min-
utes). Returning to the otogar, it leaves from
stop 4 on Atatürk Caddesi. Bus No 96 from
the otogar goes direct to Çekirge (€0.85, 40
minutes).
A taxi from the otogar to the city centre
costs around €8, to Çekirge about €9.
CITY BUS
Bursa’s city buses (BOİ; €0.85) have their
destinations and stops marked on the front
and kerb side. A major set of yellow bus stops
is lined up opposite Koza Parkı on Atatürk
Caddesi. Catch a bus from stop 1 for Emir-
sultan and Teleferik (Uludağ cable car); from
stop 2 for Muradiye; and from stop 4 for
Altıparmak and the Culture Park. You can
also pick up buses to the Botanik Parkı (No
15) and Cumalıkızık (No 22) from here.
All city buses now run on a prepay system;
you can buy tickets from kiosks or shops near
most bus stops (look out for the BursaKart
sign). If you’re staying for a few days there are
various multi-trip options available.
DOLMUŞ
In Bursa, cars and minibuses operate as
dolmuşes. The destination is indicated by an
illuminated sign on the roof. The minimum
fare is €0.70.
Dolmuşes go to Çekirge via the Culture
Park, Eski Kaplıca and I Murat Camii from
a major dolmuş terminal immediately south
of Heykel. Other dolmuşes wait in front of
Koza Parkı.
METRO
Bursa has an efficient modern metro system,
but as it serves only the outskirts of town
rather than the centre, it is seldom used by
visitors.
TAXI
A ride from Heykel to Muradiye costs about
€2, to Çekirge about €4.
